Thao Vu and Kilomet 109
Son Tinh Original Ruou would like to ask…what is it that inspires you? For us, here at Son Tinh, we have always found inspiration in stories of artisans who forego the use of heavy machinery and mass production. Whether it’s by picking up a hammer and chisel or a needle and thread — no matter what the field, we are truly inspired by those who can break free from modern conventions and embrace practices from a bygone era. Which is why we were delighted to sit down and discuss craft with Hanoi based clothing designer Thao Vu. She too shares the same sentiment regarding handmade craftsmanship and artistry as we do.
Thao, is the visionary creator of the designer label Kilomet 109 (link). A Vietnamese based clothier, who has taken traditional fabric production and dyeing methods and combined them with modern stylings to create contemporary garments, which are both self-sustainable and environmentally conscience.
Now that she has settled into her newly renovated retail space overlooking Hanoi’s Westlake, Thao has finally found the time to reminisce on just how her passion for fashion and craft all started.
“We basically learned to make everything we needed for ourselves.”
“I grew up surrounded in a craft village. My entire family used to do a lot for ourselves, such as weaving baskets and making our own clothes. We had no other choice in the 70/80s. We did not have a free-market to purchase things like we have today, so we basically learned to make everything we needed for ourselves.”
Thao’s latest collection, titled PHIEU is a culmination of the DIY ethics learnt during her adolescence and the modern practices, which she studied during her tenure at the London Fashion College in Hanoi.
Although PHIEU, which loosely translates to “unburdened journey” may sound like a walk in the park, creating the collection was far from a simple journey. From its early conception to the final product, PHIEU took upwards of a year to complete.
Although PHIEU, which loosely translates to “unburdened journey” may sound like a walk in the park, creating the collection was far from a simple journey. From its early conception to the final product, PHIEU took upwards of a year to complete.
CREATING SLOW FASHION
The PHIEU collection began, literally from the ground up. By using only sustainable materials, all of Kilomet 109’s natural hemp, silk and cotton fabrics, along with the vegetable dyes were cultivated by ethnic minority women from the Nung, Hmong and Thai tribes, located in remote villages found in northern Vietnam — including Cao Bang, Hoa Binh, Lao Cai, and Ha Giang.
“The children of the artisans don’t know how to make the textiles anymore. They have no interest, because nobody is buying it or it just ends up in the souvenir shops.”
The techniques of weaving these intricate batik fabrics is a skill passed down by generations. The practice however, is slowly being lost. It is Thao’s hope that by employing many of the village women, she can do her part to help preserve this almost extinct custom.
“There are many techniques which are already gone.” Thao admits. “The children of the artisans don’t know how to make the textiles anymore. They have no interest, because nobody is buying it or it just ends up in the souvenir shops.”
Since traditional textiles are so time-consuming to produce, many villagers seek cheaper, more mass-produced alternatives in order to make their souvenirs. These inexpensive fabrics are purchased in bulk on quick trip across the border to China — leaving many villagers to contemplate abandoning their lifelong craft of textile production.
The alternative may seem quite tempting for those seeking to make a fast buck, but Thao wouldn’t dream about changing the way she works now.
“I want to create something that I feel good about. Feeling good is not about looking good, but feeling good inside as well. I do this to support communities, local designers, labels and artisans.” Thao explains. “You can’t really cut corners. You just have to accept the way it is and I’m happy with that.”
The difference between slow fashion and a mass-produced garment are undeniably noticeable. After taking months to create a bolt of fabric, the finished textiles are light and flowing with piercing natural colours.
“I want to create something that I feel good about. Feeling good is not about looking good, but feeling good inside as well. I do this to support communities, local designers, labels and artisans.”
“It could take about two months to produce one dark black indigo cloth.”
“The jacket that I’m wearing takes twenty dips [of indigo dye] to create this type of blue. Every day you dip twice from the morning to the afternoon. You let the dye vat rest overnight and the next day you do it again. It takes about two weeks. If you want a dark black, it’s about forty to fifty dips. It could take about two months to produce one dark black indigo cloth.”
As for the apparel themselves, Thao’s designs are best described as elaborate, yet minimalistic. The Phieu collection recalls visions of 70s and 80s Asian retro styles mixed with more modern trends — such as high-waisted trousers and jump-suits.
“My designs are very much a mix between east and west.” Says Thao. “I love tailored clothing and structure. To me, design has to be practical and functional, but also detailed. It has to reflect who we are and what kind of work we do.”
“My designs are very much a mix between east and west.”
BECOMING INSPIRED
By working with, and not against the constraints of time, Kilomet 109 has managed to weave a vision of Vietnamese fashion that at one moment maintains the essence of traditional culture, while at the same time manages to provide a modern look. For this we would like to thank Thao Vu and Kilomet 109 for inspiring us to continue innovating ruou well into the future as well.
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