Son Tinh Food and Alcohol Pairing
Perhaps it was the late, great celebrity chef, Anthony Bourdain that best summed up what Vietnam means to us during his Parts Unknown Television series in 2018.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKGMyb6VRfE
“It grabs you and doesn’t let you go. Once you love it, you love it forever.”
This sentiment rings true about the country’s food as well, because, much like how an excellently prepared dinner paired with an equally perfect beverage are intrinsically linked, so too is Vietnam and its food.
It is a harmony that not even the expanse of time can alter. Even after centuries of innovation, recipes for traditional Vietnamese dishes have largely gone unchanged, and why should they? The savory broth in a simple bowl of pho is as close to perfection as you can get.
What has changed, however, are Vietnamese eating habits. It was not long ago that the concept of pairing food with a proper beverage still seemed somewhat “foreign”.
In some cultures, what you eat is just as important as what you’ll be drinking. Such as pairing a tomato-based Italian pasta sauce with a medium-bodied red wine, or accompanying a plate of German bratwurst with a malty wheat beer.
It is never a doubt that to the Vietnamese, food and drink is essential to any social gathering. It is the heart of the party, but when it comes to what to drink, for far too long, it seems that anything goes…just as long as it lubricates the night.
For us foodies here at Son Tinh, we find that discovering the proper balance between food and drink is what elevates a culinary experience from a simple dish to something that is to be relished, and with twelve different flavours to choose from, there is a myriad of different taste profiles one can play with.
To further understand the complexities of food/drink pairing and how it pertains to Vietnamese dishes, we sit down with restaurateur Dan Dockery. As the manager of Highway4. Dan is no stranger on how food pairing works. He also just happens to be a connoisseur on how Son Tinh Ruou can be used to heighten the flavours of several gastronomic delights from his own restaurant.
“It grabs you and doesn’t let you go. Once you love it, you love it forever.”
“You couldn’t open Highway 4 without Son Tinh, it is kind of like the chicken and the egg.”
“You couldn’t open Highway 4 without Son Tinh, it is kind of like the chicken and the egg.” Dan jokes with a smile, regarding the history between Highway 4 and Son Tinh. Dan is also one of Son Tinh’s co-founders. Along with master distiller Markus Madeja, they started Son Tinh Original Ruou in 1999. The first Highway 4 restaurant opened its doors in Hanoi the following year. Since then, the eatery has grown to three locations throughout the city.
SEPARATE YOUR WHITES FROM YOUR DARKS
Firstly, we are presented with a plate of Catfish Spring Rolls. A Highway 4 specialty, the succulent smell of fried fish combined with fresh dill is intoxicating. A shot of Son Tinh Nep Phu Loc is then poured for us. Sitting together, the two already look like partners ready for a delicious dance.
“A general rule of thumb in all food and drink pairing is that darker meats go with darker liquors, while lighter meats such as chicken and seafood go with lighter coloured liquors.” Dan explains. “The standard rules, however, are always subject change according to preference.” More on that later, as we discovered.
Lighter meats with lighter coloured liquors…got it. We take a mouthwatering bite and follow it with a sip…
The clear colours of Nep Phu Loc retains all the flavours of the fragrant sticky rice in which it is made. The aroma of rice and its mellow after-taste holds its own alongside not only the spring roll’s intricate flavours of crispy gfried catfish, chili powder and dill, but also with its taste stimulating dipping sauce made from oyster sauce, lime and wasabi.
The subtlety of the seafood flavours are key here. A properly paired drink should not take away from the natural flavours which already make this dish so delicious. It is up to the beverage and food to work together to enhance the meal.
Nep Phu Loc is perfect for preserving original tastes and enhancing flavours. Give it a try with savory dishes that are not overpowering or too sweet, such as grilled seafood, fish and chips, a variety of Vietnamese hot pot, or plates of rare meats and caviar.
SUBVERT YOUR EXPECTATION
Up next, we are presented with mouth-watering spare ribs, grilled to perfection and served drizzled in a rich sweet and sour sauce made with Son Tinh Moc Sa Pa.
Perhaps as a no brainer, Dan also pairs the plate with a glass of Moc Sapa. Taking into account what we had just learned about light liquors with light meats however, we had to ask, why is Moc Sa Pa being paired with a white meat such as pork?
Whether you consider pork a red or white meat due to its myoglobin count or advertising, the entire dish changes substantially when served over a thick layer of intense sauce. The proper beverage needs to reflect this as well.
Moc Sa Pa, contains notes of rice straw and dried plum, which work quite effectively with sweet and sour dishes. Its blend of herbs and spices are vivid and earthy and helps to sooth such powerful flavours found in the sticky sauce.
We take another bite and follow with another sip. Once our palate has accustomed itself to the bouquet of flavours, we begin to gain a greater appreciation for the light after-taste of smoked cinnamon that lingers from the beverage.
As a palate pleaser, Moc Sa Pa feels at home with hearty dishes such as Italian pastas and thitkho, as well as with salty smoked meats and the spiciest of Chinese, Thai and Indian dishes.
MAKE THE DISH YOUR OWN
“When I introduce liquor to people, I usually start with something slightly sweeter, such as rose apple, apricot or nep cam.”
So, there you have it. Two very different Son Tinh flavours paired with two very different style dishes. Moc Sa Pa has a wonderful way of reigning in and soothing strong flavours, while the high fragrance of Nep Phu Loc works instead to enhance them.
As complicated as food pairing can be, our sense of taste can be grouped into five basic sensations (sweet, salty, bitter, sour and umami). Knowing this, and a few simple rules is enough to send you on the beginner’s path to food pairing.
“When I introduce liquor to people, I usually start with something slightly sweeter, such as rose apple, apricot or nep cam.” Dan explains regarding people’s preferences. “If they do not like sweet, then I would suggest Nep Phu Loc or passion fruit. Passion fruit has more of zest to it.”
As an expert in food pairing for decades, Dan knows that tastes are quite subjective. Not everyone’s palates are the same. The point is to have fun and enjoy the process of discovering new combinations of tastes.
Please join us next month when we take a deeper dive into the world of food pairing with Son Tinh. We will be shifting our focus into darker and equally as delicious territories, with cured and red meats.
“If they do not like sweet, then I would suggest Nep Phu Loc or passion fruit. Passion fruit has more of zest to it.”
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